Year 2 in Kyoto – episode 13

Hello! Yes, it’s me again – you may remember me from some verbose wanderings that had been posted some time ago? Well, I know I have used this excuse before, but we really have been very busy; it has been the season of friends and family.

Taking up the story where I left off, we (Steven, Craig and myself) had just walked up to Fushimi Inari. After this, we caught a train to an area in Fushimi ward (suburb) where there are a number of sake (nihonshu) breweries. Getting off the train, you enter a long, covered arcade which has many interesting shops and eateries. At the end of this arcade, is another arcade to left which eventually becomes a shopping street, with older shops lining each side. It’s a really pleasant walk and worth going there just for that.

This street ends at a canal, with a street running along the canal. Each way on this street are many very old buildings, some in the machiya style. Many of the breweries are in lovely old wood and white plaster buildings. One presence you really notice here is the image of Sakamoto Ryōma, in paintings, photos and statues, who lived (and died) in the 1800s, who contributed to overthrowing the Tokugawa Shogunate and was a key figure in Japan’s modernisation. He was assassinated in 1867, at the age of 31, at an inn (Omiya Inn) which is in the Fushimi sake district.

 

The courtyard where the Omiya Inn used to be

The first brewery we came to was the Kizakura Kappa Country brewery which includes a small museum about nihonshu production, a restaurant/bar, a shop and a small art gallery and museum about the kappa, the mythical water creature I have previously talked about. It has a very nice courtyard area; perfect for enjoying lovely sunny days while drinking some nihonshu. I could have sat there for hours…😊.

On that note, the weather is still a bit up and down but there are now more lovely, sunny, warm days, then the occasional overcast or rainy day. When it rains, though, it really rains! It hasn’t been humid either, that is, until today. I hope we continue to get some more warm and not humid days before the walking puddle weather really sets in!!!

The next brewery we went into was the Gekkeikan brewery, which was established in Fushimi in 1637. At the brewery is the Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum, which shows the tools and process of sake production and has good English explanations. A tasting of three of the drinks produced by Gekkeikan is included in the price at the end of the self-guided tour, which is a clever precursor to entering the shop. Hard to resist buying something when you have drunk some of their produce (which is better than the Gekkeikan nihonshu you can buy in Australia). The entry fee was ¥300 and included a 180 mL bottle of Junmai Ginjo nihonshu, which was quite pleasant too!!

The next day we took Steven to the Kyoto Botanical Gardens, mainly because we had never been there before and the weather was going to be nice for a stroll around a very large garden. The timing wasn’t that great in terms of what was in flower, although the peonies were fabulous. The gardens also include a huge glasshouse of various types of plants, including tropical, arid and fruit bearing. I tried to get some fruit, but I just couldn’t reach…(japing). As you might imagine, given my love of flower photography, I took just a few photos that day!

On Steven’s last day we went to Tofukuji in part because he had never been there before and in part because they were having an open day for local residents – so it was free for us to get into the main garden area. It isn’t as spectacular there outside of blossom time and autumn, but it is still a very nice place to be. I intend to return when the lotus is in flower – it has one of the biggest lotus ponds in Kyoto. Later that day, Steven left to return home.

After Steven’s departure, we had time to get our house in order (literally) and do some catch-up shopping and other errands prior to my brother’s arrival. Colin was here for a week and, having not been here before, we took him to a selection of places that we had been to before, including Nijo-jo (which we hadn’t been to for a while), a return trip to the Fushimi brewery area (which we obviously really enjoyed the first time!) and a trip to Osaka to see the castle. He is currently in Tokyo, enjoying the very big city and the various sights.

 Colin’s best Uncle Fester impression!

The day after Colin left, we had a brief but enjoyable visit from Matt (another of our taiko friends from Adelaide). He is in Japan to visit his fiancé’s family and took time to stay with us for one night. Matt also very kindly brought with him a very significant present of goodies from Adelaide, which we were running short of here and which are hard to come by – my favourite Twinings tea bags, Massell stock cubes and a haul of cumin, which we use a lot of in our cooking! It was a large bag full of these things and, while I had told him any of these things would be wonderful when he asked, the sheer volume was completely unexpected and very, very gratefully received 😊.

This week is the first week of the third sumo basho of the year, so we  also got to discuss this with Matt, which we used to do when we saw him at taiko class, as a fellow enthusiast. The very good news is that Hakuho is back, so I am enjoying see him again. I’m not sure how much longer he will continue – he has broken nearly every top sumo record there is now, except the most consecutive championships record. I will be very sad to see him go, just as it was very sad to see Harumafuji go, especially in the way he did.

During this period, we have had some further issues with obtaining our hotel licence, which has further delayed the time we are going to actually finally get it. The first issue was that the scrivener had been unable to get hold of the chair of the community group we are in. We had no idea he was having trouble until, after two weeks of trying, we were told and asked to get a list of all the committee members (which we could have got much earlier if we had known). Anyway, after we obtained the list, the scrivener finally got hold of the chair and met with him. Apparently the meeting was a bit terse for a while, due to a misunderstanding, and the result was a list of questions/items we had to address.

When we received them, we nearly choked, because some of them were nearly unanswerable and really did smack of xenophobia. After we went back to the interpreter to ask for a copy of the original report in Japanese, so we could discuss it with Takako and formulate responses (and her comment on some of the questions/items was WTF?), the scrivener asked to meet with us and Takako to try to sort things out. We got the impression from the list that the chair did not like us and did not want us to get our licence.

So, yesterday we all got together and went through the list, exactly what happened at the meeting and our situation. It turns out that the chair was actually on our side and he wanted us to be prepared to answer some very tricky questions that may arise at the explanatory meeting which we have to have with our neighbours. We found out that another guest house in the area had recently had to close down because of numerous complaints from the neighbours in this area, and the issues he gave were those that had been directed at the other guest house.

We also found out that there is a good chance we won’t get our licence until at least mid July…☹. The final application cannot be submitted until we have had the explanatory meeting and agreement of the neighbours is received. Further, because our house is on the boundary with the next community group, we will also be having a second explanatory meeting with them. This will all be happening on Sunday, 3 June, because we have to give two weeks notice before the meetings. It all seems to have become the never ending story.

Such is life.

Cheers for now!

 

PS  I should also add that our other guests brought generous gifts from Adelaide with them – Jenny & Steven brought tea bags, Twisties, Favourites and Tim Tams 😁, and Colin brought a haul of coffee pods 😃. Thankyou everyone for your generosity and thoughtfulness.

Craig gets caught up in a matsuri while dropping off at the station

 

 Tasting at a bottle shop

School bus…

 An Australian in the Botanic Gardens

 !Stranger than fiction

4 thoughts on “Year 2 in Kyoto – episode 13”

  1. Sorry to hear you’re still having issues that are holding you up, you are getting lots of practice in the mean time tho!
    It will be worth it in the end 🙂

    Thanks for peony pics one of my all time fav flowers 😻😻

  2. Sorry to hear you are still having problems ,hope it sorts its self out soon ,Love to you both x

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